Quite a day today. Started in the rain and uphill on a very muddy road. Slow going indeed. At about the 5 km mark we came across a cantina. It was essentially a road side stand near an abandoned home and run by a nice couple. They had teas, coffees, juices, hard boiled eggs, fruits, cookies, cakes etc etc. As with many such cantina, it is by donation so you leave what you can. The walk continued until we finally got a glimpse of Astorga, an old roman town with a cathedral designed by Gaudi. We walked through the town which was crowded as I think it was market day. We stopped for a quick beer and headed through the town. On the outskirts we stopped for some Salami (we picked some up earlier) and chocolate (Astorga is a major chocolate producer) we then continued uphill to Santa Catalina where we found a nice albergue complete with fire place. Tired and muddy but determined!